Number 102: For my 60th birthday, a country not yet visited: Portugal!

Raymond was particularly excited – many direct ancestors on his mother’s z”l paternal side who fled the Inquisition from Lisbon, Porto, Beja, Coimbra, Belmonte, Trancosa, Moncao, Amarante, Braganca.

Exploring beautiful Lisbon from our Airbnb in Bairro Alto district, via trams, taxis, walking, buses, trains. The multiple hills, old Jewish quarter in Alfama, Sephardi tradition Shul on Friday night.

I didn’t particularly like the strange  food, but Ray, more adventurous in culinary taste, did! I however fell in love with “pasteis de nata”, the Portuguese custard tarts. The long queue at Belem, best and oldest place that makes them, was so worth the wait!! I have since discovered where in Cape Town they are made! Seaside Cascais was enjoyable; Sintra’s ancient magic castle – extraordinary but too many tourists!

Driving north towards Porto, a few nights in Medieval Obidos for my birthday, at Literary Man Hotel, which boasts more books than any other hotel globally. A former monastery – rather austere rooms but books everywhere! And a trust system to purchase them. Listening to Fado music, an acquired taste I did not particularly enjoy; walking Obidos’ mediaeval walls;  upon Yair’s insistence travelling to Nazare, reputed for the biggest surfing waves globally; standing outside Portugal’s oldest Shul, under renovation, and exploring the Jewish Museum in Tomar; walking the ancient, steep, winding streets of University town Coimbra.

The private tour of three Jewish Quarters in Porto was exceptional – our French student guide extremely knowledgeable. We imagined ourselves living in those ghettoes – curfew for Jews each evening when the iron gates shut the narrow entrance; no windows looking outside the ghettoes; high walls;  narrow stepped streets; balconied buildings. At Shul on Friday night, largest in the Iberian Peninsula, so many young French people  – fleeing anti-Semitism in France!! Exploring Porto, with day trips to Aveiro’s canals, and medieval Guimaraes, all contributing to the brief, intense taste of Portugal over only two weeks.

I loved the buildings covered in tiles, art everywhere, sense of history, casual warm feeling and friendliness of the people.  It was a very special birthday!