30th January to 2nd February 2026 Blog Post 8

Ashore, at last!!, after 10 days: Awesome. Sharp differences between 75 inhabited French Polynesian Islands.

Marquesas archipelago islands are volcanic with lush steep peaked mountains, deep valleys. 

Nuku Hiva, population 3 200, welcomed by local ukulele, we were transported in convoys of 4×4 “bakkies”. Drivers: no English. Pounding waves crash against the shoreline with little protected areas to swim. Local fruit tastings a highlight: bananas, mangoes, breadfruit, papayas, coconut fudge, tapioca.

Later 10 drummers and dancers’ performance, reminiscent of New Zealand rugby Hakas. Mainly older, larger men and women, their bodies elaborately tattooed. Youngsters captured in Gauguin’s paintings must have been elsewhere that day?!

Next day, Atuona village, Hiva Oa, population 2 400, last few years home and burial place of Paul Gauguin, nineteenth century French Artist and Jacques Brel, Belgian songwriter and singer. No organised tours, so cruise passengers walked around in intense heat and humidity. For us, a fortuitous last-minute opportunity to join a private comprehensive Island tour.

Gauguin museum: remarkable. With original art works housed elsewhere in the world, no need for elaborate security. Under each (original looking) painting, a caption conveying the original artwork’s location. Brel museum displays his aeroplane, he flew to provide vital humanitarian services to local communities. Reflected on Judy Biderman’s z”l angelic, impossibly beautiful voice singing Brel’s “Port of Amsterdam” at Habonim Seminar!

After Gauguin and Brel burial ground visit, we toured the gorgeous island, small coastal villages, stunning views, religious Tikis, (revered carvings at sacred sites). Catholicism now embedded, further enabled by “European” diseases that decimated Polynesians, leaving their societies vulnerable and weakened. 

Fakarava and Rangiroa, populations 850 and 2 800 respectively, on other hand, in Tuamotus archipelago, are flat, narrow coral reef atolls a few metres above sea level, encircling a central sheltered lagoon. Again tendered ashore, the Fakarava truck took us to an iconic lighthouse, experienced local javelin throwing, husking coconuts, drinking freshly chilled coconut milk. Historic Catholic Church constructed from coral blocks in 1874.

After our excursion, first swim this cruise in the wave-free warm azure Pacific Ocean.

Tomorrow a natural aquarium underwater experience awaits in Rangiroa!