Number 109: Yair, in Prague as part of his Grade 10 Ulpan trip to Israel, raved about its beauty, history, uniqueness. So, in May 2003 leaving Yair and Maya with Sascha and Cal for 10 days, we travelled to London for Ray’s Conference and then to Prague.

The language – a struggle! “The Jewish Museum of Prague” is written “Zidovske Muzeum v Praze”. Difficult to read which Underground station to get off at. Thankfully our Travel Guide Book helped out!

The incredibly beautiful architecture, ubiquitous crystal shops, 1410 Medieval Clock Tower astronomical dials, mounted on the Old Town Square wall, representing the position of the Sun and Moon. Walking along Charles Bridge –  imagining the Cold War and James Bond movies filmed there! Drinking coffee at Cafe Franz in the Jewish Quarter and walking along its cobblestoned streets, gave insight into Czechoslovakian Jewish life before the horrors of WWII. The 16th Century “Maiselova Synagoga”;  Spanish Synagogue – the newest in Jewish Town, in Moorish Style, completed in 1868. The Pinkas, the Klaus and the Old-New Synagogue of 1270! The Old Jewish Cemetery, from 1439, and the exceptional Jewish Museum. The same Jewish Torah and prayers, but such different lives!!

The visit to Theresienstadt Ghetto was particularly harrowing. Moses a’ Cohen Treves z”l, Raymond’s great grandfather perished there. Other family members “passed through” en route to the Death Camps: A hybrid concentration camp and ghetto established by the SS in the fortress town of Terezin. You see how the foreign Red Cross guests were tricked into observing beautiful showers -but without pipes connecting to water supply!

Beautiful Karlovy Vary, with its famed spas and thermal springs, attracting visitors since the 14th century. The home based “communal” Friday night service in Prague: English was a communication barrier but we all related to the Hebrew Service! They were curious about “White Jews from Africa”!! The astoundingly intricate and ornate buildings and the stark “Communist” apartment blocks at town’s edge…

Prague and surrounds triggered mixed emotions: The trauma of our family history. The wonderfully rich experience that opened our eyes and hearts to people from another world…