36. A different kind of Chilli Pepper in Ghana
24th – 25th April 2023
In Accra, Ghana, after Independence Square, we visited a fantasy coffin making business, built to match the deceased’s interests, character traits, profession. Takes months to carve expensive woods into shape of car, cell phone, aeroplane, chilli pepper…..! Ga people believe that life continues in next world as it did on earth.
Weird practices of other countries, religions, ethnic groups I caught myself thinking – until remembering that Clapton song: “Take a look at yourself”.
In Takoradi no fishing on Tuesdays! “Sealife needs one day not having to hide from fishermen”. During the ancient Homotop festival, land must lie fallow between end of farming season and new one’s beginning. Women and girls carry items on their heads, reminiscent of SA’s Eastern Cape Xhosa women of my childhood: Sewing machine on head; baby on back, while balancing trays of eggs on head.
Population now 33 million, 80 languages – Ghana first Black African country to gain independence from its colonial masters, 6th March 1957. Kofi (name reflecting widespread custom, day of week born: Friday) Annan, UN’s first Black African Secretary General. Closest Country to centre of world – not East nor West, North nor South! Ghana’s high degree of co-existence and religious tolerance reflected in the National Public Holiday declared on Eid al-Fitr – even though Muslim people only 18% of population. Obsessed about their “Black Stars” football team. Beautiful West African bright cotton fabrics, clothes, beads, wooden items abound.
From Takoradi to Kakum National Park: 2½ hours’ drive! Many markets on sides of potholed poor quality National Road, filled with trucks, taxis, cars, cyclists, pedestrians. Squalor but palpable hard work and initiative. Women feature prominently. We visited a palm oil extraction Women’s Co-operative, where their group economic power enabled leasing machinery via bank loans to grow their business.
At Kakum National Park, we crossed 7 suspension bridges with spectacular views over Canopy Walkway’s tree tops, in one of Ghana’s few remaining rain forests.
Its flag perhaps best reflects Ghana’s essence: Black star represents emancipation of Africa, unity against colonialism. Red: Independence Struggle; Yellow: Country’s mineral wealth; Green: Forests and farms.
