34. “Tweeblaarkanniedood” & other Namibian experiences

16th & 17th April 2023

Welwitschia plant, found only in the harsh hyper arid Namib Desert. Afrikaans: “tweeblaarkanniedood”, grows only two leaves, (looks like more due to tearing & twisting), longest lived leaves in entire (global) plant kingdom, sometimes over 3000 years old.

We have both previously spent time in Namibia – not nearly enough, especially it being South Africa’s next-door neighbour, Sheryl’s mother born in Keetmanshoop, many family members lived there at one time.

Sailing through a jelly fish and seal filled sea we arrived in previously British, never German, Walvis Bay, Namibia’s only deep- water harbour, centre for tourism, fishing, manufacturing, import & export port facilities. We 4 by 4ed towards “German” Swakopmund through Namib Desert: barren “moonscape”, serious sand dunes; terrain reminiscent of Negev in Israel, crossed the dry Swakop River. Luck of the draw our driver the Company owner – knowledgeable guide on history, geography, area’s context, with engaging discussions on Namibia, South Africa, African Continent.

Incredible that in this hyper arid region, lichens abound drawing moisture from fog. Then the incredible “tweeblaarkanniedood” (two leaves that cannot die). (My late father, z”l, always spoke about the expressive Afrikaans language, like Yiddish!), generally known as the Welwitschia: longest lived plant leaves in entire plant kingdom, some alive for over three thousand years, even before David crowned King of Israel!!  What tricks up its leaves – this extreme resilience, longevity?!

Welcome light refreshments at Goanikontes Oasis in “lunar” landscape with eccentric decorations – old car bumpers on walls, wedding dress hanging in women’s bathroom!

Next day: Swakopmund: German colonial buildings, Museum, beautiful Kristall Galerie, classy “gallery shop” selling all manner of art, jewellery, clothes, foodstuff.  Abundant birdlife, stories of oyster farming. Glimpses of past Jewish life: Sam Cohen Library; Pupkewitz Motors …

Namibia: world’s second least densely populated country, after Mongolia, approximately 3 people per square kilometre! mining the biggest contributor to economy; good relationship with Angola – in it together against colonial forces! prospects of new oil production era, some electricity purchased from South Africa (yes – despite loadshedding there!!)

That evening, a barbecue on deck with theme: “Out of Africa” and reflecting on guides statement: “How lucky we the inhabitants of Namibia are, to live here”, how good to experience what felt like a stable, quiet, country with few inhabitants, excellent roads, relatively few inhabitants and problems.

Landscape in Walvis Bay area reminiscent of the Negev in Israel.
120 lichen species in the Namib! Many endemic. Lichens are a composite organism consisting of fungi and algae living in symbiotic relationship. Fog provides the moisture for their survival in harsh conditions.
Ostrich Egg Necklaces in Swakopmund. Sheryl (in picture!) didn’t face away from them for long!
Passing Anton Lubowski Avenue, previously Lazarette Strasse, Swakopmund. Name changes also in Namibia! Anton Lubowski was an Advocate, Anti-Apartheid Activist, member of South West African People’s Organisation (SWAPO), assassinated by South African “Operatives” on September 12th 1989.