28th to 31st March; 5th April 2023

Osama Bin Laden emblazoned on the back window of our vehicle we (only three guests) drove the potholed road to Ambatozavavy village, 40 minute paddle in pirogue across the huge, ruggedly outlined bay to mind-blowing Lokobe Reserve rainforest. Barefoot guide extraordinarily skilled pointed out various chameleons, including world’s smallest, also world’s smallest frog, red ruffed lemurs swinging the high trees, grey lemurs, striped metre-long snake slithered past my boot, huge boa constrictor on path side, range of masterfully camouflaged geckoes, diverse range of plants explained, including ylan-ylang perfume tree, spiders, birds…  Multitudes of endemic species, not found elsewhere. Captivating, diverse, colourful, weird, inimitable experience. Sheryl meanwhile befriended some black lemurs on Nosy Be.

In Antsiranana, previously Diego Suarez, Baobabs in distance, (sadly not the Grandidier Giant Baobab that especially Sheryl had eagerly anticipated)! old French Colonial buildings, War Cemetery: 1942 British vs French, Battle of Madagascar.

In Toamasina, a boat down Pangalanes Channel: many homes, work activities along the banks. Washing, swimming in polluted water.  

And in Tolagnaro, previously Fort-Dauphin, walked a beautiful forest, wooden sculptures, refreshing swim in river’s rockpool with waterfall.

Madagascar was difficult to visit. World’s fourth largest Island, 28 million people, range of ethnic groups, staple food: rice with beans and fish. Ours the first cruise ship since COVID.  Extreme poverty evident everywhere. Distressed people swamped us, hands through windows desperate to sell something. Very little work, electricity, opportunity. Our guides Nokia phones – unconnected to internet. Fishermen rowed boats toward our ship, begging us to drop clothes, food. We were instructed to not do so. Schooling not compulsory. $25 per year beyond many parents’ means. Unqualified teachers. We saw children at school with no pens nor paper. Huge deforestation: 90% of Island! Burning of trees to create charcoal for fuel, with young men cycling their heavy loads to markets in town.

Sheryl bought fabulous hand stitched squares, to make cushion covers. Also, a small carved wooden chair to drop off in Cape Town.

But our overwhelming sense, especially in the towns, was anxiety and discomfort while trying to process the extent of hardship and hopelessness.