23. Focused on Food not Politics in Malaysia

Reclining Buddha in Penang Temple

Docking at Port Klang, hour’s drive to Kuala Lumpur (KL), this a different experience from 2009 KL stopover with friends, en route to climbing Malaysian Borneo’s Mount Kinabalu and visiting fascinating Orangutans.

“Hasbara” (Israeli term for public diplomacy seeking to control the narrative and information distribution), also big in Malaysia, 34mn people, projecting itself as stable, peaceful, tolerant, environmentally conscious, dialogue seeking, multi-religions represented by varied beautiful mosques and temples, harmonious State – propounded also by our guide.

Yet, below surface racism simmers between dominant Malay majority and minority Chinese, Indians, other groupings.  Grand scale deforestation, habitat destruction by highly profitable, job creating, palm oil production industry. Israeli passport holders: forbidden entry! Malaysian passports: “valid all countries except Israel”.  Penang Jewish Cemetery established 1805. Its synagogue closed 1976.  Anti-Jewish sentiment in Malaysia means no current Jewish Community to speak of.  

But political controversies not focused on during our short stay. Rather: Food! 

We reflected on South Africa’s Muslim Cape Malay Community. Originally slave workers brought from Indonesia, Malaysia, India, Sri Lanka, Madagascar. Their distinctive cuisine fuses flavoursome, blended, spicy, savoury tastes deeply embedded within Southeast Asian tradition. Curious to explore!

We chose “Malaysian Culinary Highlights” – excellent call!  First, breakfast at “local” restaurant: Strong black coffee, (not Turkish), soft boiled eggs with soya sauce, toast with ‘kaya’: sweet coconut jam on cold butter.

Walking KL’s Chinatown, tasting sweetened soya milk, then black fruit juice. Delicious! Lunch in Mall: Various spicy curries and sides, served on large banana leaves. Some KL exploration – world’s 6th most visited city, Petronas Twin Towers photo opportunity, before long drive back to ship.

Penang island, “Pearl of Orient”, hit hard by 2004 tsunami. Beautiful beaches but no swimming now: jellyfish! Wet rice farming; nutmeg juice; awe inspiring Buddhist Temple – skill and craftmanship almost unbelievable, especially the enormous gold leaf covered reclining Buddha. Batik factory too touristy! Beautiful Entopia Butterfly farm’s 15 000 butterflies.

Self-exploring great – walking UNESCO World Heritage Georgetown, Penang’s Capital. Fabulous, quirky street art; foody paradise! A late Little India tasty curry, before hurrying back for ship’s departure to Phuket.

Locals eat breakfast at a local restaurant in Port Klang – also our small group of 8.
Savouring lychees and loganberries black fruit juice in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown on a hot day.
Street Art example in Georgetown. Is the Motor bike part of it?
Royal Caribbean’s Spectrum of the Seas, over 4000 passengers next to the ship we are on: Silver Shadow, between 300 and 400 passengers, at berth in Penang.