20. Exquisitely Packaged White Gold in Hong Kong

16th to 18th February 2023

Hong Kong skyline view across the bay from our ship at Kowloon’s Tsim Sha Tsui pier

“Not all that tempts wandering eyes and heedless hearts, is lawful prize; Nor all that glisters, gold”*

South Africa’s superior tasting, succulent wild abalone a delicacy, (also aphrodisiac!), especially sought after. This “White Gold”, describing the snail’s pearly flesh, displayed at innumerable high end HK boutiques, spotlessly clean, “tastefully” packaged, exorbitant prices! interspersed with dried shark fins (conspicuous consumption reflecting wealth & status); dried seahorses (Chinese medicine ingredient). Our guide non-plussed about sharks’ slow painful death once fins barbarically cut off! Our Onrust home close to Hawston’s illicit poaching, increasingly dangerous, ocean depleting, crime syndicates’ abalone smuggling area. Deeply distressing, lamentably real: the booming multi-billion-dollar market demand fuelling SA’s 20 times legal limit abalone industry.

Up tram funicular to Victoria Peak, from the Star Ferry or anywhere, densely populated, pulsating Hong Kong’s multiple skyscrapers, glittering skyline, symphony of lights show, Asia’s crown jewel, world financial hub, spectacular as 16 years ago visit with Yair and Maya. This time a continuous view from our starboard balcony at Kowloon’s pier.

Fascinating walking through New Territories living quarters, learning about tiny, hugely expensive homes; public vs private housing considerations. Multitudinous temples: Hong Kong means “Fragrant Harbour”. Thousands of incense sticks’ scent wafting through air, gold foil and joss paper burnt offerings (physical representations of money, clothing, …), smoke conveying to gods, venerating ancestors, believing their spirits continue influencing the living’s fate. Traditional sampan manoeuvring between old house boats and ultra-modern yachts at Aberdeen Fishing Village harbour. Clothes marked “made in China” !

In 2008, now again, Friday night: over 150 years old Sassoon family-built shul. Wonderful Communal dinner. Stringent security. Jewish people who choose, live, thrive in HK: exciting vibe, mountain hikes, beautiful beaches, swimming. Jewish Geography worked! Macau Professor knows people we know! Newest Tesla, our Uber back to ship!!!

One of earth’s last places enforcing COVID testing, mask wearing, high fines for non-compliance. Debarked via multiple stern, uniformed officials into ultra-sophisticated mall. Some things (COVID) policed in HK, others (White Gold) it seems not! 

We set sail reflecting on different perspectives of temptation, what is lawful? what is gold?!

Our guide shows us a packet of shark fin at one of the numerous boutiques viewed on our walking tour. On the top shelf: abalone in bottles: Each a different price. Masks compulsory.
Dried Seahorses in a box
Incense Sticks and various offerings at a Hong Kong Temple
Joss paper representing clothing and other physical goods, purchased for burnt offerings to be made to deities and ancestors.
Inside the beautiful Hong Kong Shul before Shabbat on 17th February 2023

*   Ode on the Death of a Favourite Cat, Drowned in a Tub of Goldfishes.   Thomas Gray