Ubiquitous, the friendliness of people waving, smiling reflecting bright red stained teeth. They don’t see “dim dims” (white people) often!; Oppressive humid tropical heat interspersed with torrential downpours; thatch roofed houses on wooden stilts; more plant species than any other Island globally: hundreds of banana varieties; sago palms; betel nut trees. World War 2 memorials to Australians; Japanese; Germans. Narrow, few, poorly developed roads. Discomfort in non-airconditioned Mini-Buses.  Undeveloped infrastructure. Distinctive Melanesian facial features, different from Polynesians and Micronesians. Mountains, jungles, swamps keep villages and cultures isolated, with 839 languages across nine million people reflecting extreme population diversity. Cannibal ancestors openly mentioned!

“Everyone chews “buai”” – red staining betel nut, consumed with mustard stick dipped in slaked lime from age 6 . “Makes me happy, extra energy, our culture”, chewed then spat out. It’s psychoactive: creating euphoria, alertness, laughter, chatter. Spittle, shells litter ground. Highly addictive; Carcinogenic!

For me, climbing “The Mother” Volcano, at Rabaul city, previously destroyed by Volcano, was ultra-exhausting and exhilarating with spectacular tropical forests and sea views. “Are we there yet”? ringing in my ears as the guide kept repeating: “about another 20 minutes”! Many dropped off, the tropical heat, humidity, steep incline too much.

A highlight for Sheryl was interacting with local Ceramicists. They use clay from surrounding areas, firing their pots in a pit. Sheryl buys clay and fires in a kiln. But both make handmade creations in clay. Connecting, sharing experience and tips, was special.

The hypnotic, rhythmical, thumping ritual with drumbeats and chants, of the Baining Tribe’s haunting night fire dance, was centred around an enormous pyre. About 15 men with huge masks darted into flames, kicking embers, sending spark showers into the night sky. Seats and structures custom built by Silversea, left for later use by the local population.

“Sharing” culture precludes “local” commercial ventures, so Chinese owned stores! At open air markets vendors sit in lines selling one product only: tobacco; betel nut; yams or…. No differentiation!

PNG: An utterly different, uncomfortable, unforgettable, extraordinary experience!